The Wanderer "Otras montañas por escalar"
Foto de Sylvia Andrade

Publicado en agosto 2013 | "Otras montañas por escalar" Foto de Sylvia Andrade

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Prejuicios

Explorando nuevos espacios, costumbres y formas de interacción, el viajero encuentra la dificultad de transmitir una identidad que es mucho más compleja que lo que inicialmente pensamos sobre nosotros mismos y sobre los otros.

por Federico Andrade Rivas

“Federico Andrade Rivas”, respondo con orgullo cuando preguntan mi nombre en esta Sudáfrica en la que algunos hablan inglés y otros creemos que lo hacemos. Si no fuera por este viaje, nunca habría notado que mi nombre puede llegar a sonar tan foráneo para alguien. Una “erre” y dos “eres” pronunciadas con un fuerte acento “latino” logran despertar la curiosidad de varios acá. —¿FRederico? —dice ella— … —Exactli!, —respondo, como para no complicar las cosas—. —Ou, uat a biutiful neim. Wer ar yu from oriyinali?—. Mi mente se detiene un segundo, pero mi boca no, y digo “Colombia”, no tan rápido, sabiendo las reacciones que esta palabra despierta. La mayoría de las veces sólo es un asombrado y sincero “Ou, dats exaitin!”, pero en ocasiones termino en una conversación de las que no se deberían tener cuando más gente está esperando para presentarse y varias manos más quieren ser estrechadas. Hablamos de cocaína un rato, hasta que mis respuestas monosilábicas logran su objetivo de desvanecer el diálogo y puedo alejarme de esa conversación que no quise tener en primer lugar. Algunos van diciendo cosas a la ligera sobre Colombia, tal vez creyendo que eso va a despertar mi interés por conversar o generar algún nivel de empatía. O tal vez lo hacen para olvidar que su país también tiene conflictos y que le gusta ordenarlos y segregarlos por colores de piel (entre otras cosas).

Y es que acá, en la “Nación Arcoíris”, los colombianos somos esa gente lejana y exótica que despierta curiosidad y genera las mismas y poco variadas preguntas que he respondido mil y más veces en estas tierras. Para ellos somos el Pibe, la salsa, la pasión, el romanticismo, las drogas, Pablo Escobar y un lugar lleno de gente igualita a los brasileros. “Ou, so yu spik portuguis?”, “Did yu mit Pablou Escoubar?”. Trato de hablar del café, sin saber por qué, pero es inútil ya que no aparecemos en su “café-grafía” global, ni siquiera entre aquellos fanáticos de esta bebida. Intento significar algo más, o algo menos, que un “Latin lover” telenovelesco, pero ya es tarde. Mis “erres” y mi nacionalidad calaron en esta gente antes que mi corazón y mis palabras.

Sin ganas, sólo para esconderme un ratico, me dirijo al baño de esa casa donde acontece uno de los millones de braais (asados) que ocurren cada día en este país, uno de los cientos a los que he sido invitado. Si algo he aprendido tras dos años de vivir aquí es que sólo tres cosas parecieran unir a los sudafricanos de todas las clases y grupos étnicos: el respeto a Mandela, un balón de fútbol y usar cualquier disculpa para rostizar carne con un grupo de amigos. Tanta es la importancia del braai que el día festivo originalmente pensado para conmemorar las tradiciones y patrimonio cultural que construyen la identidad sudafricana (Heritage Day) es ahora conocido como el “Braai day”. En parte por estrategias de mercadeo de la industria de la carne y también porque tal vez es el único “patrimonio” común entre las once lenguas y culturas oficiales de este territorio. Suspiro, algo pensativo, preguntándome por qué llaman “fiesta” a una comilona en la que nadie está bailando. Me echo una manotada de agua en la cara mientras miro al espejo y veo un “yo” con rastas, cargando una mochila arhuaca [1] que ya lleva años labrando su propia zanja en mi hombro izquierdo. Me miro con el lente promedio colombiano y veo un mochilero-marigüanero-hippie-tira-piedra-mamerto que mientras jugaba al expedicionario en algún pueblo recóndito del Magdalena Medio levantó dudas en un niño que intentaba entender esa mata de pelo largo. “¿Macho o hembra?” preguntó, sin decir nada más, mientras sus ojos se clavaban en los míos a la sombra del letrero que da la bienvenida al pueblo: “Puerto Boyacá, Capital antisubversiva del país”. Sonrío mientras pongo en la balanza de mis pensamientos ese día sudafricano en que mis rastas me salvaron la billetera y tal vez una tripa. Alguien encapuchado se acercó, mirando al piso, con un cuchillo en la mano. Ya a mi lado levantó la mirada y notó el matorral saliendo de mi cabeza. Muy de cerca, a distancia de pre-beso, me miró a los ojos diciendo “Rispect, Jah”. Y se alejó levantando el puño mientras su boca soltaba el canto de la revolución “Amandla, bro”, a la vez que su olfato lo guiaba hacia una presa más “atracable”. Porque acá los que no son blancos, que son más pero tratados como menos, ven en las rastas un símbolo de lucha, devoción religiosa, revolución, respeto y esfuerzo. Y es que meterse con un Rasta puede marcar la diferencia entre acceder a la tierra prometida de Zion o vivir en negación a Jah (Dios) detrás de las murallas de materialismo y codicia de Babylon. Eso sí, a algunos les cuesta entender por qué uso un “bolso de mujer”. Sí, eso piensan de las mochilas colombianas. Supongo que varios compatriotas dejarían de usarla cuando cualquier aparecido se refiriera a su mochila como un bolso. Pero yo entiendo que lo que en Colombia significan una mochila, unas rastas o alguien como yo (sea lo que sea que eso quiera decir) se quedó allá. Agradezco la oportunidad de re-pensarme, y ojalá re-encontrarme, una vez más dentro de esta refundida constante de la que espero nunca salir.

Miro fijamente al espejo y luego de un rato logro verme dentro de esa densa neblina de prejuicios. Esto quiere decir que ha llegado el momento de salir. Es hora de enfrentar una noche que nació de una invitación en un espacio algo surreal, mientras escalaba una montaña en forma de tabla con un francés de dos metros y una sudafricana de uno y medio. Cosas y cosas trataban de decir de Colombia, como si mi nacionalidad fuera lo único que me definiera. Ya al final de la tarde, nació la pregunta que no podía faltar “Du yu du de salsa?”. Pienso en mi mente traductora que puede sonar pretencioso si digo que yo “la hago”, y que probablemente Rubén Blades se molestaría si, como simple aficionado, respondo de manera afirmativa. Pero entonces recuerdo que así habla esta gente rara, para quien los niveles del amor se dividen en menos opciones que las que un corazón latino necesita para desahogarse. Aquí “tu du de salsa” es simplemente bailarla, y aunque posiblemente nunca me acostumbraré a decir “yes”, lo digo tranquilo de no estar hiriendo susceptibilidades entre los salseros de corazón.

Me pido paciencia y recuerdo que lo que creía saber de Sudáfrica antes de aterrizar en ella está lejos de la realidad. Que viajar bien podría definirse como el acto de matar prejuicios. Salgo a la “fiesta”, sonrío, juego a ser el colombiano que ellos tienen en mente y paso rico, eso sí, necesitando un poco más de trago de lo normal para catalizar conversaciones que serían algo más naturales en casa. Hablo y hablo, maña que me cuesta quitarme, y mientras más lo hago menos importa de dónde vengo y más lo que estoy diciendo o dejando de decir. Por un momento hablamos como gente, y vamos pelando etiquetas que de lado y lado nos habíamos puesto. Por un instante se me olvida que estoy en otro lugar y simplemente me hago presente y hábito este espacio por el que escogí transitar. Porque, contrario a la realidad de la mayoría de los colombianos, yo escogí, libremente, irme de mi casa. Sin el ruido de las bombas y balas a mi espalda y con una sonrisa por tener la fortuna de poder empacar mi vida en dos maletas. Significo y doy significado, pero por el momento lo disfruto. Porque por eso me fui de casa y a eso vine al África. A poner mi vida y mi Colombia en perspectiva.

[1] En Colombia el término “mochila” se refiere a un objeto artesanal utilizado para transportar artículos. Se cuelga con una banda del hombro. Los arhuacos son los integrantes de un pueblo indígena colombiano

Federico Andrade Rivas

Federico Andradees un investigador nómada, enfocado principalmente en temas relacionados con salud, antropología médica y la relación del ser humano con el medio social y natural. No tiene miedo a explorar nuevos campos y espacios de investigación, y está en constante lucha de no dispersarse demasiado para ser viable en un mundo científico que fuerza cada vez más a la especialización. Aventurero aficionado y viajero apasionado. Cursó estudios en antropología, ingeniería ambiental y salud pública.



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  1. Muy bueno fede!

    Lo extraño es que a veces,en tierras extraña, uno actúa como si la nacionalidad fuera lo único que lo definiera. Se hace amigo de gente con la que nunca hablaría en Colombia. Todo con tal de sentir algo de cercanía a casa.

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