The Wanderer Desierto de Namibe, Angola, 2006, de la serie “Reflejos en un vidrio”.

Publicado en abril 2013 | 'Como es adentro es afuera' por Soraya Hoyos

160

Una noche en el desierto

A Ray, in memoriam

“Los viajeros no exploran el mundo, viajar es sólo una excusa para explorarse por dentro”.

Por Soraya Hoyos

Estábamos en medio del desierto de Namibe en Angola. Acampamos en la tarde en el lugar más hermoso que he conocido hasta hoy. Bañados de atardecer, entre enormes dunas color mostaza y naranja, a tan sólo una centena de metros de la playa. Todo era mágico, los delfines que salieron a saludarnos a nuestra llegada, un barco pesquero oxidándose atascado en la arena, las alfombras de cangrejos gigantes que se abrían a nuestro paso, las focas contorneándose en las olas, y al caer la noche una media luna rodeada de nubes y de estrellas.

Alrededor de la fogata, nos chupamos cada uno una lata de leche condensada con una humeante taza de café. Hacía frío y un círculo enigmático de desconocidos hablaban en inglés, italiano y portugués, mientras descifraban el significado oculto de sus nombres. Había gente del Brasil, Colombia, la India, Italia, Angola, Portugal, Suráfrica. Sobrecogida entre los rayos dorados que caían sobre las dunas y el océano, comprendí por fin lo que había ido a buscar tan lejos. En la infinitud del desierto y del océano, no me sentí diminuta como un grano de arena; por el contrario, sentí que me expandía en la inmensidad del universo. Como es adentro es afuera… los viajeros no exploran el mundo, viajar es sólo una excusa para explorarse por dentro. Viajero es aquél que vive perdido y recorre el mundo creyendo que algo se le ha perdido. Nada se ha perdido, el universo entero está contenido adentro.

El guía preguntó quién quería dormir al aire libre. Yo, yo quería dormir afuera respirando esa brisa mezclada de sales y de arena. En realidad, yo no quería dormir en absoluto, no quería perderme ni un segundo de ese viaje, ni un sonido ni un movimiento en el desierto, quería verlo, tocarlo, olerlo todo, rodarme como una niña por las dunas y revolcarme en ese océano de arena, dejarme transportar por el viento que rugía con furia hasta los tímpanos.

Nadie más quiso dormir fuera de las carpas, así que el guía se ofreció para acompañarme. “¿Dónde quieres dormir?”, me preguntó. “En la cima de una duna”, respondí. Y allí puso las dos bolsas de dormir, a un par de metros de prudente distancia la una de la otra. Echados boca arriba sobre la arena y conversando sobre constelaciones zodiacales, el guía ya no era el guía sino Ray, un amigo que llegaba para cambiar el curso de mi pensamiento. Hablamos del amor, del desierto, de la vida y de la muerte. “Please don’t die. Not yet, not now”, le pedí en medio de un subidón emocional inesperado. “I have no plans of dying anytime soon, don’t worry, I have a lucky angel watching over me…” dijo. Quién iba a saber en ese entonces que, a pesar de sus planes, la muerte lo llamaría de manera repentina. Se hizo el silencio.

De repente, aún tirada de espaldas sobre la duna, un chacal se me acercó. Sentí su hocico a unos centímetros de mi cara, sus ojos casi en los míos. Quedé petrificada. Menos mal, porque lo que había que hacer para evitar un ataque era quedarse inmóvil. “Quédate quieta y tranquila, obsérvalos”, me dijo él, “sólo vienen a buscar comida, cuando no encuentren nada, se irán”. Estábamos rodeados de chacales. Los demás viajeros dormían. Uno de ellos se despertó de un sobresalto. Mi amigo se reía. Yo me sentía en un video de la National Geographic.

Sólo en la madrugada pude conciliar el sueño; los pasos de los chacales a lo lejos me lo impedían; entonces me senté y medité. Y lo que había estado tan lejos, de pronto estuvo cerca. Decidí que era más poético y divertido vivir dejándose guiar por las estrellas. A partir de esa noche, nunca más dejaría de observar los astros: como es arriba es abajo. Sólo mirando hacia el cielo podemos comprender lo que sucede aquí abajo. Los egipcios consideraban a los chacales abridores de caminos por su habilidad para encontrar rutas en el desierto. Hace un par de meses, cuando murió Ray, el guía, el amigo, o ex-amigo, comprendí que ese chacal se apareció en mi vida para abrir el camino.

Bogotá, marzo 20 de 2013

Soraya Hoyos

Soraya Hoyos es una socióloga y fotógrafa colombiana. Durante las últimas dos décadas ha viajado por varios países de América Latina, África y Europa, y ha trabajado con diferentes organizaciones internacionales de derechos humanos y de cooperación para el desarrollo.



160 respuestas a Una noche en el desierto

  1. Me hace falta ver las fotos de Sory en este texto!

    • Isaac Hoyos says:

      Tal vez las fotos no sean necesarias porque el articulo es bastante fotografico. La descripcion del entorno desertico cerca al mar es tan vivida q uno puede visualizar los colores, olores, sonidos, y textura de las dunas, las olas, el oceano, las conversaciones multilingues. Pero el articulo va mas alla porque nos muestra una fotografia del alma. Ni la camara mas sofisticada puede mostrar lo que la sensibilidad de Soraya nos muestra mas alla del entorno fisico.

      • Soraya Hoyos says:

        Gracias Isaac por ese comentario! Trataré de recuperar algunas de las fotos de ese viaje, o sino por lo menos algunas de las fotos de ese bello país que es Angola. Abrazos.

    • Soraya Hoyos says:

      Haré un resportaje fotográfico algún día, espero.

  2. nubia pinzón says:

    Tan profunda ! siempre me cuestionan tus escritos , tus opiniones, tus comentarios ….hasta tu risa maravillosa y a la cual no debes renunciar ……nunca !

  3. Guillo says:

    Bello texto, Sory. Sigamos andando y buscándonos.
    Un abrazo, Guillo

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  • THE WANDERER

    Esta columna explora el tema del desplazamiento, “el fuera de lugar” en un mundo y una generación transglobal y transcultural.

    A column written by the staff or contributing columnists that delves into the concept of displacement. This column would not only be reflective but also observing of the idiosyncrasies of the places of displacement from which the writer is composing the column.